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    New York · Journal

    Bacon, Egg and Cheese, Salt, Pepper, Ketchup: A New York Order

    What goes into New York's bacon, egg and cheese, what SPK means at the counter, and the bodegas that sell it.

    A man walks into a brightly lit corner bodega at night in Park Slope, Brooklyn, under a lit 'Falafel Gyro' sign; black-and-white photograph.
    Photo: spurekar, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    In New York, this breakfast sandwich is ordered by its contents. Bacon, egg and cheese is both the name and the recipe. Gothamist has called it “the city’s signature morning sandwich.” Reporting from Bronx bodegas in 2023, its reporters wrote: “A bacon, egg and cheese sandwich is as synonymous to New York City as the Big Apple itself.”

    The order often has a second half. After the sandwich come three more words, said just as fast: salt, pepper, ketchup.

    What goes in it

    Gothamist’s description is exact: “two eggs, a discretionary amount of bacon and American cheese on a round Kaiser roll.” Bodega owners quoted in its survey work priced it two ways, on a roll or on a hero.

    Baconeggandcheese design
    Baconeggandcheese, as it is printed: two inks, charcoal and rust.

    The Kaiser roll is a specific bread. The American Heritage Dictionary defines it as “a large roll with a hard crust, often used for sandwiches,” and gives the name as a translation of the German dialect word Kaisersemmel, from Kaiser and Semmel, a dialect word for roll. Amy Drew Thompson, a food reporter for the Orlando Sentinel whose old neighborhood bodega was in Rego Park, Queens, is firm about it: “It’s a must. The only way.”

    The name has changed over time. Thompson remembers a shorter one: “It was just called an egg sandwich when I was growing up. You didn’t have to say bacon or cheese.” Later, she writes, it “became the bacon, egg and cheese. Or the B.E.C.” Gothamist’s coverage shortens it to BEC.

    It was just called an egg sandwich when I was growing up. You didn't have to say bacon or cheese.

    Amy Drew Thompson, Orlando Sentinel

    Salt, pepper, ketchup

    The seasoning belongs to the order. Thompson writes: “You might say ‘salt, pepper, ketchup’ when you ordered it, quickly, all in one breath. Or ‘SPK.’” The counter can also ask first. She calls it “a quintessential New York call-and-response”: the customer says “Lemme get an egg sandwich…?” and “Salt, pepper, ketchup?” is “fired right back.”

    The abbreviation now appears outside New York. In 2025 the Press Democrat explained BECSPK to readers in Sonoma County as “shorthand for ‘bacon, egg and cheese with salt, pepper and ketchup’ on a soft roll,” a breakfast “available at most neighborhood bodegas.” The story was about a chef, a Long Island native who “grew up with the BECSPK,” opening a breakfast spot there named SPK. In Tampa, Thompson found a food truck whose menu reads “BECSPK all one word.”

    The bodega

    The word is Spanish. The American Heritage Dictionary traces it to the Latin apothēca, storehouse, and NPR notes that in Spanish it “can mean ‘storeroom’ or ‘wine cellar.’” Gothamist dates its arrival in the city to when Spanish-speaking people “began arriving in New York in large numbers during the first half of the 20th Century.”

    “Few places capture the essence of New York City like a bodega,” the Gothamist survey team wrote. Bodegas, they added, “alongside barbershops and laundromats, are trusted hubs where people can connect with their communities.”

    NPR reported in 2017 that New York’s bodega culture “took shape in the 1940s and ’50s.” Carlos Sanabria, author of The Bodega: A Cornerstone of Puerto Rican Barrios, told NPR the New York bodega is still “closely associated with that first generation of entrepreneurs from Puerto Rico.” Since then, as NPR put it, “Many different ethnic groups have taken on the business model.”

    The city has its own working definition. In a 2010 report on its Healthy Bodegas Initiative, launched in 2006, the city Health Department defined a bodega as a food store that has no more than two cash registers, sells mostly food without specializing in any one item, and sells milk. Delis sell the sandwich too; Gothamist’s 2025 report on egg prices described bodegas and delis alike struggling to keep it affordable.

    A price index on a roll

    The sandwich has also been used as an economic measure. In 2023, WNYC and Gothamist, working with the research institute Knology and the Bodega and Small Business Group, began surveying owners and customers at bodegas in the Bronx. The reporters called it “the bacon, egg and cheese indicator.”

    A grocery store window filled with canned goods and hand-lettered price signs, including butter at 37 cents.
    The window of an A&P grocery at 246 Third Avenue, Manhattan, 1936, with sale prices posted for butter, coffee, cheese and canned goods. Photo: Berenice Abbott (New York Public Library), Public domain

    Bronx bodega owners told them the sandwich “used to cost between $1.99 and $3.50 for a roll” and had “almost doubled in price,” to between $4.50 and $6. In early 2025, with a bird flu outbreak driving up the cost of eggs, Gothamist found it selling for “around $4.50 to $6.50” depending on the neighborhood, with deli owners considering raising prices by at least 50 cents.

    The song

    BACONEGGANDCHEESE / Salt Pepper Ketchup

    Latin house · boogaloo · 2:30

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